First, know that every pool has a dead spot, a place where the water does not circulate well. Usually, this is at a place half way between the return jet and the wall skimmer. Other dead spots will be under ladders, at the steps, in corners, and sometimes under the diving board. These are the areas where algae will form first. Algae will be noticed in two ways, as your pool will turn green, your filter pressure will rise, or your walls and floor will be more slippery than usual. Therefore, in other words your pool does not have to be green to have algae.
If you get algae, there still is no need to panic. Just remember shock and algaecide will be your two best friends in this battle to get rid of it. The first thing you will want to do is brush the pool, as algae is a plant with a cell wall, and the brushing will disrupt it and allow the chemicals in to the cell. After the brush, we will want to poison the cell, and we will want a 60% polymer algaecide to do it (1 quart per 25,000 gallons). Mix this with water, pour around the pool with the filter running, and then wait one hour. After the hour is up, you will shock the water with chlorine, however, you will add an extra pound or gallon of shock to your usual amount. Therefore, in our example pool you would use 3 gallons of liquid shock. After about four to six hours re-brush the pool and leave it circulating overnight, and tomorrow vacuum the pool then back wash the filter (if cartridge, clean it).
Once you are clean from the algae you will want to re-check your chlorine level, as fighting the algae will leave without it. Therefore, if you find yourself here, you will want to shock with your normal dose, as in our example pool 2 gallons liquid shock, or 2 pounds granular. As a warning, swimming with algae can be harmful in a pool as the body of water is enclosed, unlike streams and rivers; the germs brought by algae have more of a chance to affect the swimmers.
With pool, ownership comes some things to always remember, and for starters, your filter pressure should never be less than 7 psi, and more than 15 psi. If your filter pressure gauge no longer resets to zero when turned off, and then it is time for a replacement. If your pump is leaking then you generally need a pump seal, or an O-ring, but not a new pump. A pump is made up of two distinct sections, and those are the motor, and the front strainer assembly (the motor is the piece of metal). The filter itself has no moving part inside her to fail, however, does have parts that can crack and rip to cause other issues in your pool.
Next, always remember to maintain your pool at proper levels this includes the following levels:
*PH-7.4 to 7.6
*Alkalinity-100 to 140 ppm
* Stabilizer-20-80 ppm
*Calcium-150 ppm (non-heater) 200-400 (heated)
The calcium level will keep your pool water non-corrosive for your metallic pool equipment. The stabilizer level will maintain your chlorine level, and see that you will not spend a fortune in chlorine. Whereas the PH will see that your bather’s (swimmer’s) comfort is seen too, as 7.4 to 7.6 is the PH of our blood, eyes, skin, and hair.
Finally, always remember that even with chlorine stabilizer you will still have to shock once a week. In addition, you will have to remain vigilant with chlorine tablets dissolving in to your water. Now, the normal philosophy for this is an offline or inline chlorinator, but if a $100 was not in the budget, you can use a floating chlorinator. For the correct amount of tabs to use you will have to use and adjust. However, if you have a pool the size of our example, start with two tables and adjust from there; and generally, these tabs will last about a week (assuming 3” slow dissolve tablets). Following these tips, you will maintain swimmer comfort, extend your pool season, keep your pool crystal clear, and have a long happy life with your swimming pool.